Today's
Beer
Name
– Joker IPA
Brewer
– Williams Brothers
Classification
– 'Contemporary' India Pale Ale. (It's about time we all started
officially separating the classic style IPA's from these ultra-modern versions, don't ya think? What
with them being about as similar to each other as Laurel and Hardy.)
Strength
– 5.0% ABV
Verdict
- At A Glance
On
the eye
– Deep tangerine amber. Or, to state it in more technical terms -
'pretty
damn lush.'
On
the nose
– No
less lush. But surprisingly malty for a hop heavy beer, with the aromas of rich butterscotch
and farmhouse loaves muscling out the far more placid scent of tropical fruits.
On
the tongue
– Well, well, well. What a clever beer this is. An entirely new, and
distinctly 'Scottish' approach to this 'ultra-now'
beer style.
On
the subject
– The Williams 'Brothers' are exactly that. In the final days of
the last millennium, Scott and Bruce Williams decided to exploit the
combative effects of sibling rivalry by turning their competitive
energies outward into the wider world, and a formidable new brewery was the result.
Their début beer, the astounding 'Fraoch'
Heather Ale began
turning heads worldwide in almost no time at all, and all manner of
super-distinctive brews have since followed.
On
the market
– As far as the aforementioned 'Fraoch' is concerned there are no
availability problems at all, but the rest of the range can take a little
more finding. You could ask the boys themselves, or contact the
benevolent provider of this wee bottle, The Real Ale Store.
On the whole – 8/10
On the whole – 8/10
Full
Review
Well, aside for being manifestly gorgeous, this is actually a fascinating
beer.
Being
the bold, expeditionary, innovative types that they are, Williams
Bros have grabbed the concept of a contemporary, highly-hopped beer
and sprinted all the way to the hills with it.
Significantly, those (metaphorical) hills weren't the mounts of just any old nation. This beer has clearly been given the good old fashioned Scottish treatment.
In very broad terms, the classic ales of Scotland are infused with a
hearty malt-driven robustness, they're enriched with dark berried
fruity themes, underpinned with toffee and roasted nuts, spiced up
with all kinds of heathland wildflowers, and brewed with a general
richness of flavour, body and alcoholic potency which is both unique
and utterly delicious.
By
and large then, they are enormously different beasts to the modern
hop-heavy, super-citrus golden beers which are appearing in ever increasing
numbers these days.
But
in many ways, that very issue of 'ever increasing numbers' is
becoming a tricky one for producers of contemporary highly-hopped beer. After all, how can breweries continue to find
ways of making their versions stand out among this ever swelling
crowd of grapefruit greats?
Well,
Scott and Bruce Williams have found a pretty darn clever way. And it's one of those
ultra-simple but eye-rolling ideas which head brewers
everywhere must be wishing they'd thought of first.
With
Joker IPA, this brewery has taken the key elements of what is (all too
often) referred to as a 'hop-bomb', and thrown it together
with carefully selected aspects of classic Scottish ale.
The
result is every bit as remarkable as you might expect.
Big,
super-high-pitched grapefruit, blood orange and apricot smack right
into and fully intertwine with rugged dark hedge fruits, damson, well ripened plum, sumptuous suggestions of bracken and
tree bark - there are even impossible traces of toffee and black
treacle in here. It's really is the most beautiful carnage, and no
two mouthfuls are ever the same.
Midway
through, I did spend a moment wondering what the occasion might be in which I'd plump for one of these in place of either a more conventional
modern 'hop-bomb' or a regular Scottish classic, but by the end of the
bottle I was so damn miserable about not having another one to open - I
figured there'll probably be a whole bunch of such occasions in the not too distant future. This is far too enjoyable to drink just once and be happy.
By the time I'd got over the trauma of only having a single sample in my possession, I realised I'd learnt one thing for sure from discovering this beer.
The Williams Brothers are no Jokers.
Be in no doubt.
These boys are deadly serious.
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