Monday, 12 September 2011

Day 132, Beer 132 - Shepherd Neame's "Whitstable Bay"

Today's Beer




Name – Whitstable Bay

Brewer – Shepherd Neame

Classification – Organic golden ale

Strength – 4.5% ABV



Verdict - At A Glance

On the eye – Rich amber gold.

On the nose – Juicy bitter fruitiness and some lovely 'autumnal forest' deeper notes.

On the tongue – More of those juicy bitter fruits (notably apple, clementine and black cherry) with some herbal and spiced hints, underpinned by beautifully pitched 'woody' malts. Very rewarding.

On the subject – What can be said of Shepherd Neame's beers that hasn't already been said in pubs and homes all across Britain? Well, probably nothing, but here's a hugely verbose review anyway. Having said all that, not all of their brands are as well known as others, and today's beer is one I'd personally never tried before. The 'organic' status of this brew suggests the stirrings of a slightly more 'ethically sound' approach, and when influential market leaders like these guys set these kinds of examples it bodes well not just for the industry and the planet, but also for beer in general, because my experience is that organic beers nearly always taste better.

On the market – Most major supermarkets, and plenty else besides. Those with larger appetites should go to the brewery's own online store, where huge case-loads of these beauties are freely available. (The word 'freely' has various meanings, and this is probably not the one you were hoping for.)

On the
whole8/10



Full Review

Every ale approaches you in a unique way.

Some sneak up on you, others smack into you like freight trains. Some prioritise first impressions, others prefer to win you over more gradually. There are those beers that scream 'love me love me' until we finally do, as well as one or two that make us break down in tears wishing liquid had never been invented.

But every once in a while you come across an ale that is so chilled-out, low-key and contentedly self-possessed, that it really couldn't care less what you think about it. Such beers don't concern themselves with the undignified business of making an 'approach' to a drinker. They just know we're going to like them anyway, so they simply bypass all the hassle.

Whitstable Bay is one of those beers.

It's one of those brews that you find yourself still ordering at the very end of the night, without having once considered a change. I believe the phrase is 'easy-drinking'. A well-worn phrase indeed, but one which few beers could better encapsulate.

The continuous gentle sway between bitter dryness and zesty fruit sweetness is delightfully hypnotic, and it quite literally never settles on either side. This is actually quite ingenious, and it's a good example of the kind of clever tricks this well-oiled brewing team likes to incorporate into their creations.

There is a sense of freshness and immediacy to the drink, and it could be argued that this vividness stems from the use of organic ingredients. Given what I've already observed during these reviews, I wouldn't be at all surprised about that.

But given that very same set of prior experiences, I can't help but wonder how much more of that dynamic vitality might be enjoyed if this beer were to come bottle-conditioned.

It seems to me that the marriage of organic produce and bottle-conditioning is pretty much made in heaven, and there would surely be no better way to see that theory put to the test than with a beer like this.

Maybe one day they might give that a try. I'll certainly be skipping around like an utter lunatic if they ever do.

There's no question, though, that this beer in its current form is a delicious way to be tantalized in the meantime.

It really is a hugely enjoyable ale. 

Friday, 9 September 2011

Giving A Home To Rooster's!






Didn't this website used to do beer reviews?


Anyway... 

Another day brings another delivery, and 'Baby-Faced Assassin' from Rooster's Brewery qualifies as a unique delivery for two reasons.

Firstly, it's the only Bottled Beer Year delivery to consist of just a single bottle, and secondly - it's the first delivery to induce a very loud and very protracted deep guttural moan from yours truly.

Quite literately, I saw this bottle emerge from its packaging and went weak at the knees.

Not only is it enormous (at a standard wine bottle-size of 750ml) but the combination of the Rooster's 'look' and the beer's fabulous name amounts to absolute dynamite in terms of branding. My hat's off to the resident genius over in marketing.

This is a 6.1% India Pale Ale, and I have to say that its life has been in grave danger ever since the doorbell rang.

Tradition dictates that it must join the queue like every other beer - but that doesn't mean I have to be happy about it.

No sir!

Stay tuned for the review.




-

Thursday, 8 September 2011

Windsor & Eton - The Return!






Transforming my day from a mere Thursday into a glorious landmark occasion is this second batch from Windsor & Eton Brewery.

I've made no secret of my admiration from this mighty micro, and I stand by my prediction that this will go down in history as one of the most successful small breweries of its generation.

My previous reviews of their beers can be found here, but these latest arrivals could well outdo their stable-mates if all the considerable recent hype is true.

The beers are (from left to right...)

Conqueror 1075 - (Black IPA) 7.4% ABV

Republika - (Pilsner Lager) 4.8% ABV

Windsor Knot - ('Royal Wedding' commemorative beer) 4.5% ABV

Geographically speaking, it seems only fair that this brewery should step up to the plate with a beer to mark a certain recent royal event, but it's really those other two beers that are going to keep me up all night with excitement for the next couple of weeks or so.

Stay tuned for the reviews.




Sunday, 4 September 2011

A True Cornish 'IPA' Story




Look, I had intended to post a few bits from here in Cornwall during my visit, but it's all far too lovely and the pubs are far too good.

So it's going to be a four day break for the blog - and I'm far too content to care.

But here's a odd little true story to tide you over...

Yesterday, my strikingly attractive girlfriend and I went to a very lovely pub owned by St Austell's brewery. I will refrain from naming the venue, partly out of common decency but mostly because of an irrational fear of bloodthirsty reprisals. (I am still down here, after all).

Anyway, the pub was completely lovely, as was the barman, and the beer he served up was immaculately kept.

But he and I argued like dogs all the same.

Our epic bar-side battle was fought over the famous, multi award wining St. Austell beer 'Proper Job'.

I'd noticed that alongside the Proper Job pump was another St. Austell brew called 'IPA', and I remarked how interesting it was that two of the four cask ales available were IPA's.

What follows is my best recollection of the dialogue that subsequently developed....

BARMAN - How do you mean?

ME - Well, St.Austell have given you four pumps, and they've got you serving Proper Job as well as another IPA called 'IPA'.

(Short pause. BARMAN's face wears a look of friendly disgust.)

BARMAN - Proper Job's not an IPA.

(Longer pause. Much, much longer.)

(At the end of this truly colossal silence, Cornwall sinks very suddenly into the Atlantic, never to be seen again. At least, that's how it feels...)

ME - (Eventually...) Er....

(ME knows his face is in danger of wearing that very same look of 'friendly despair'. His mind races with a thousand sudden doubts about his knowledge of beer, because BARMAN works here - he actually works for St Austell - so the likelihood of him being wrong is totally minuscule. And yet...)

ME - I'm pretty sure it is.

BARMAN - It's not.

ME - It is, I promise you.

(ME knows that making such 'promises' about the classification of BARMAN's ale is risky, but he's feeling emboldened by the iPhone in his pocket which, among other things, contains his own recent review of this legendary beer.)

BARMAN - (Chuckling with indignation now because this is his job and he serves this beer all the time - so he just knows he's right...) Of course it's not. These two are totally different beers! They couldn't be more different!

ME - Yeah, that's my big bugbear issue about the name 'IPA' at the moment, it's lost all meaning with so many different ales laying claim to it.

BARMAN - Proper Job's not an IPA. The rep from St. Austell might have mentioned it, wouldn't you think?

ME - Yes. I would.

BARMAN - (Tapping the pump marked 'IPA'...) This one's the IPA.

ME - I'd say that's definitely an IPA, yes.

BARMAN - (Tapping the Proper Job pump...) This one's Proper Job.

ME - Which is an IPA too. The name refers to the use of an authentic recipe from years ago. It's meant to be a return to the 'real deal' IPA style, that's what they mean by 'Proper.'

(Another pause.)

(The first stirrings of doubt begin to flicker across BARMAN's face, and ME senses it's time to land the killer blow. He reaches into his pocket for his phone.)

ME - Let me bring in some reinforcements. I'd better check I'm not going mad.

BARMAN - I reckon you already are. (But he's sounding less certain now. He glares sideways at the Proper Job pump like it were the ghost of a dead relative...)

ME - Drat! No signal.

BARMAN - It all depends who your provider is round here. It's a nightmare. Who are you with? (He seems keen to switch subjects now...)

ME - Vodafone.

BARMAN - (Sounding disappointed...) You'll be alright with that.

ME - It keeps going in and out of reception, I'll just give it a second...

(Suddenly, from the very end of the bar, a new voice enters the conversation. A young woman has her mobile firmly in hand...)

WOMAN - Got it here.

(BARMAN's head turns abruptly towards her. Huge beads of sweat now populate his increasingly furrowed brow...)

WOMAN - He's right. It's all here. Proper Job IPA, St Austell, award winning beer based on an original recipe, blah blah blah...

ME - There we go! I have to say that's quite a relief!

BARMAN - (With admirable generosity of spirit...) Well I never!

(At this point, ME's scintillatingly beautiful girlfriend offers up the statement "He does know his stuff..." which could have been taken like a bullet by our BARMAN, but thankfully, he's all smiles now.)

BARMAN - I take my hat off to you, Sir. I doff my cap!

ME - Oh, no need for that. I'm just glad I'm not losing my mind.

BARMAN - No no, you were absolutely spot on with that.

ME - You might want to see what the brewery rep has to say about it.

BARMAN - I certainly will, yes.

(One final pause begins, but this one's a much more comfortable affair, with everyone gazing down at the row of shiny pumps in front of them.)

BARMAN - Anyway. Now that this has all been settled - what can I get you?

ME - Well, as it happens, I really fancy an IPA.

(And with that, everyone collapses into a large heap, laughing their merry heads off.)









Friday, 2 September 2011

Day 131, Beer 131 - Wadworth's "Swordfish"

Today's Beer





Name – Swordfish

Brewer – Wadworth

Classification – Blended ale  (Wadworth 6X beer with Pusser's Rum)

Strength – 5% ABV



Verdict - At A Glance

On the eye – Deep bronze. Gorgeously sturdy and substantial looking.

On the nose – Very like beer. What I mean is, there's no obvious suggestion of rum. (Yet...)

On the tongue – A beautifully assembled 'blended' beer, which gains heaps from the team-up whilst still remaining a beer. A spicy, robust and darkly fruited powerhouse.

On the subject – I can almost picture the board meeting (in the Dog and Duck on a Friday evening) during which this idea was formed. Chucking some high quality spirit into a jar of premium ale can often seem like a good idea at the time. The thing is, Wadworth have actually made it work. Credit for this success, in part at least, needs to go to certain firm based in the British Virgin Islands.

On the market – I don't know about availability over in the Caribbean, but there's always Wadworth's online store.

On the
whole8/10



Full Review

Frankly, I was not looking forward to this.

There was something about the notion of a fairly strong beer being mixed with British Navy Rum that filled me with the sensation of wanting to pull hard on the steering wheel – even if it meant slamming head-first into a brick wall.

But it transpires that any cuts, bruises, or hefty insurance claims would have been brought about entirely without justification, because this beer (and it really is still a 'beer') is actually rather good.

In fact, I have to say it's bloody marvellous. Certainly worth avoiding brick wall collisions for.

Mercifully – and quite crucially I believe – they haven't gone bananas with the rum (although that statement sounds like a very fine beer recipe in itself). They've chosen instead to approach this in a measured, even-tempered sort of way, and it's an approach which has reaped huge rewards. Both of the companies involved have applied the vast wealth of their combined experience, their specific precision-honed skill sets, and their independently renowned flair for judgement to every single stage of this potential plane-crash of a union.

Sampling the outcome of this process has been both fascinating and massively enjoyable.

There's a stirring earthly richness to the principle flavours, and a robust, fulsome spiciness which truly captivates the mouth and leaves you forever wanting more.

It's nicely bitter and dry, but there are occasional brief hints of dark treacle sweetness which are more than welcome every time they appear. There are also plenty of dark fruit 'twangs' to tune in and out of at your leisure, and a deliciously peppery finish tops off what ultimately becomes a real jewel of a drink experience.

Too many beers which claim to 'incorporate' or 'combine with' interesting or quirky additional ingredients go much too far with it all, taking the end result too far away from 'beer' as most of us understand it.

This beer takes the concept of 'a blended ale' and utterly nails it.

It's an ale first, and an ale last.

It has simply extracted from the blending process an entirely unique character, and that's all.

This has been a real surprise. One that I would be happy to be surprised by again. And next time - there will be none of that aforementioned steering wheel grabbing.

In future, I'll be happy to crash head-first straight into these bottles.





The Shepherd Neame Team!






I dare you not to drool!

Many of my UK-based readers will be wondering how this blog has managed to run for so long without featuring a single beer from Kent's famous Shepherd Neame brewery.

Basically, it's hard to move around in this part of the world without bumping into a bottled ale from this company at least once per day, their share of the domestic bottle market is easily as large as anyone else's. In fact, it often seems as though UK law actively prohibits supermarkets from opening their doors without having at least three Shepherd Neame titles on their shelves.

If such a draconian law were ever to be passed - I suspect very few people would grumble!

Anyway, Shepherd Neame have clearly grown tired of waiting around for their beers to make an appearance, so they've gone and organized a grand entrance all of their own.

Marvellous!

The beers are (from left to right)...


Christmas Ale - (Strong seasonal ale) 7.0% ABV

Goldings - (Golden ale) 4.5% ABV

1698 - (Strong ale) 6.5% ABV

Master Brew - (Bitter) 4.0% ABV

Canterbury Jack - (Pale ale) 4.0% ABV

Spitfire - (Premium bitter) 4.5% ABV

Bishop's Finger - (Strong ale) 5.4% ABV

Whitstable Bay - (Golden ale) 5.0% ABV

Late Red - (Premium ale) 4.5% ABV


It's high time these brews were on board, and I can't wait to get properly acquainted with every one of them.

Stay tuned!

Thursday, 1 September 2011

Day 130, Beer 130 - Liverpool Organic's "William Roscoe"

Today's Beer




Name – William Roscoe


Classification – Bitter

Strength – 4.5% ABV



Verdict - At A Glance

On the eye – Rich, antique gold.

On the nose – Vivid fresh citrus and gently nutty malt. Lovely.

On the tongue – A vibrant and dynamic beer, with ultra-crisp citrus, super solid dry bitterness, and perfectly pitched nut foundations.

On the subject – This brewery has now officially brought The Bottled Beer Year to a crisis point. (Read on...)

On the market – Growing availability, but I urge you not to wait for it to come to you – go right now to the brewery's own web store.

On the
whole9/10



Full Review

I delayed the posting of this review after it was identified as being lethally toxic.

This post, in addition to the other Liverpool Organic reviews already online here, threatens to poison my entire website and send it to an early grave.

Quite simply – I cannot keep reviewing beers from this brewery.

Not without making huge changes to the way I operate. It's really just a question of whether I make those huge changes or elect not to review any more of these titles.

The reason for all of this is fairly straightforward.

Liverpool Organic's beers are too good.

And I'm not being all cutesy here. I'm deadly serious.

If I don't stop reviewing this consignment of beers, it's very possible that the top twenty slots on my chart will include ten products from the same company, and that's not a scenario I'm getting all giddy with excitement about.

This website would begin to look like a poorly disguised promotional stunt. My readers (even the most open-minded ones) would start participating in games of 'Spot The Brown Envelope' and 'Pin The Tail On The Corrupt Beer Reviewer' – and this is something I'm obviously keen to prevent. (Although they do sound like pretty excellent games...)

My chief problem is deciding what changes to make to deal with this problem. I really don't think it's morally justifiable to effectively 'ban' or 'blacklist' a brewery for sending too many high qualities ales. That would be a bit like banning Colonel Sanders from opening any more restaurants because he was making too many people lick their fingers.

(KFC played no part in the making of this poorly disguised promotional stunt. Other fried chicken outlets are available. But their food is like raw sewage in comparison. All Bargain Buckets (18 Pieces only) should be delivered via the usual Bottled Beer Year address. Dark meat only, with Diet Coke and sweetcorn sides. Don't rely too heavily on the doorbell – knock loudly as well. And step lively, time's getting on! Thanks.)

Where was I?

Oh yes, beer.

In the interests of fairness, I'm going to press ahead with a review of today's beer, but then I'm going to have a good think about how to proceed with this brewery in the future – any suggestions would be appreciated because I'm finding this whole situation a lot more sticky than I'd anticipated. 

Okay, so...

Another beer from their Heroes Of Liverpool range, William Roscoe has the deep gold visual appeal of a fine antique, and indeed there are'traditional' elements to this beer, but in true Liverpool Organic style – only the most 'modern-feeling' elements of a traditional ale have been selected, and the rest of the drink is distinctly contemporary.

Grapefruit, watermelon, gooseberry, ultra-peppery celery and the sharpest white grapes all swirl and glide around a central core of roast nuts and savoury biscuit. It's all massively immediate and dynamic, and the freshness is once again the key. It seems to me that this company's strict use of Organic ingredients, and it's consistent output of uncommonly vivid and fresh tasting beers – cannot be dismissed as mere coincidence. Organic produce appears to lend itself to beer production in the most astonishingly beneficial way.

The Liverpool Organic bottle-conditioning is as brilliantly executed as ever, meaning almost every drop can be consumed and enjoyed without grief.

Every aspect of this beer, every feature, element and component part is exemplary.

This brewery is either run by Martians or exceptionally gifted Earthlings. I wouldn't be surprised either way. Whoever they are, they're currently bottling beer every bit as well or manifestly better than any other outfit I know of.

I've got six more of their beers waiting in line, and I don't yet have the slightest idea what I'm going to do with them.