Today's
Beer
Name
– Oracle
Brewer
– Salopian
Classification
– Golden Ale
Strength
– 4.0% ABV
Verdict
- At A Glance
On
the eye
– Pale, suspiciously hypnotic straw gold.
On
the nose
– Generous amounts
of citrusy marvellousness.
(Sometimes
only made up words will do.)
On
the tongue
– A massive grapefruit-heavy thwack from an implausibly 'light'
beer. Astounding.
On
the subject
– Well, there's really too much to neatly sum up here... (Read on.)
On
the market
– Oh, how I tire of revealing that a fabulous beer is hard to come by! Shrewsbury based Salopian work overtime providing their own decent coverage of the western areas of
England but, like so many other superb small breweries, they can
only reach so far. (Will
someone please tell the major supermarkets there's been a beer
revolution going on for a few years now!)
This rare specimen was retrieved by trained specialists at Newark's
Real Ale Store.
On the whole – 8.5/10
On the whole – 8.5/10
Full
Review
Why
aren't the majority of the best UK beers available in supermarkets?
I'm
obviously not talking about the beers which are 'known as' being the
best – those beers which hog the often minuscule areas set aside
for 'proper beer' which come from the likes of Greene King, Badger,
Marston's, Greene King and... well, Greene King. These beers are fine in
themselves, many of them are more than 'fine', but nobody who follows the beer scene still believes any of these brews represent the best of what's
being produced in Britain today.
In
fact, most beer aficionados (one of which I hope to be when I grow
up) have spent the last five years or so watching a gargantuan
gulf opening up between those beers which have been sharing the crown
for many decades – and those entirely different beers which really
ought to be wearing it now.
But
when I walk into most supermarkets, certainly those I work or live nearby, I find I'm still asking myself the same old question...
“Where's
all the good stuff?”
Incredibly,
after a period of such ferocious evolution and creativity within the beer industry, as things
stand the only way of seeing bottles of Thornbridge standing shoulder
to shoulder with concoctions from Kernel, Magic Rock, Brew Dog,
Marble, and any number of other 'well known' contemporary breweries – is at a
specialist retailer or within the dispassionate confines of a
specialist dealer's website.
I find this bizarre. It's also hugely frustrating.
Most
of all though, it's plain old unacceptable.
These
massively exciting beers should either be getting some of the
existing 'proper beer' shelf space in big supermarkets, or preferably
they should be getting a section all of their own. After all, what
possible commonalities do Fursty Ferret and Bombardier share with beers such as Jaipur, 5AMSaint, or Conqueror 1075?
Beyond
the fact these are all beers – what else is even remotely similar
about them?
So
come on ASDA, come on Tesco, Sainsbury's, and
Morrisson's – aka “The Big Four” – it's time
for you all to help your customers to take part in this new and
exciting consumer experience. Quite apart from the public service
aspect, you're also guaranteed to increase your profits massively, as
an entirely new demographic suddenly adds its ever-growing ranks to
your checkout lines.
I
can but dream...
Until
then, I'll just tell you about another fantastic beer you probably
won't currently find in your local supermarket, another beer which
could be greatly improving your day if only you could get your hands on it.
Oracle
is actually something of a liquid surprise. At 4.0% ABV, you could be
excused for expecting a beer that's light in impact as well as in
alcohol content. This is very much not the case. Many breweries in
the aforementioned 'contemporary proper beer' arena take
great delight in demonstrating to us just how much flavour can be
crammed into drinks of relatively low or 'sessionable'
strength, but Salopian have clearly gone to extraordinary lengths
here to create what could well be the very best example of this low
booze, high taste concept.
Swathes
of vivid grapefruit, kiwi, lime, pineapple, orange and gooseberry
tumble over each other against a backdrop of subtle savoury biscuit,
granary bread and pine nuts. It's not just the wealth of flavours,
but the sheer potency of them which instantly and continuously
impresses.
Light
bodied, infused with a glorious sense of freshness and a stunning clarity of construction, this
is a perfect summertime beer which is light enough to stick with
until sundown. Here in the gloomiest depths of winter though, I found
the experience every bit as gratifying.
I
just wish more of us could share in the delights of beers like this
without having to drive thirty miles (like I did) or searching
around online only to be further restricted into making a bulk
purchase.
Change is already long overdue.
Change is already long overdue.
Over
to you, “The Big Four”.
4 comments:
Lack of beer choice is just another in the long list of reasons I avoid shopping at the 'big four'.
In my local (relatively small) Waitrose, I can get my hands on beers from Brewdog, Thornbridge, Oakham, and Meantime, as well as other rarities such as Fuller's Vintage Ale and a good range of import stuff.
Ah yes... Waitrose.
Sitting sufficiently out of shooting range at number 'five.'
Let me know when they plan to bring great contemporary beer to Grantham!
“Hi Mark,
We understand how passionate the beer industry is and we are committed to offering as much choice across our products as possible. Yes, we do have a large amount of beers from established breweries such as Greene King and Fullers. We also have a large amount of beers from small independent breweries, the challenge is having these small breweries able to produce on a national level which for some companies is not possible. We do work with small breweries for regional listings and we are passionate to do so if the product fits what our customers in that area will enjoy. For example if you go to a variety of Sainsbury’s across the country you would see a variety of beers from small breweries.
Sainsbury’s lead the way with quality own label beers and we now have 12 Taste the Difference Beers from 7 breweries. Our latest beers, Taste the Difference American Pale Ale and Taste the Difference Tap Room IPA have been produced in America for us and are the next step in adding to the Taste the Difference which includes Kentish Ale, Yorkshire Bitter, Suffolk Blonde, and Scottish Craft Lager.
The Great British Beer Hunt is a competition in which breweries can submit their brews regardless of their size to be in with a bid of winning a national listing with Sainsbury’s. The competition this year was the biggest so far with over 100 beers entered up and down the country and over 1,000 customers, colleagues and industry experts helped select a winner. It was so successful this year that we also offered regional listings to breweries in their You can get some more information on the competition here: http://www.j-sainsbury.co.uk/media/latest-stories/2012/20121010sainsburys-announces-winner-of-the-great-british-beer-hunt-2012/
I am always looking to improve the range of my beers through the GBBH or just when I discover a new, interesting beer. So if you have any ideas please share them with us!
Thanks
Nicky - Beer and Ale buyer at Sainsbury's”
Thanks for the comprehensive response, Nicky, it's great to see there really is not only an awareness of but also an enthusiasm for contemporary craft beer within the wider Sainsbury's operation.
However, in a word, 'Grantham.'
There's no sense of your reply within that store. None at all.
Go check. It's a true story.
To my mind, within your Grantham store there are only 2 beers (among many) which might fit into the category we are talking about here, and both of these are Sainsbury's own brand products. Your Tap Room IPA is one, and very good it is too. But surely this is not the true extent of the possibilities? Your answer given here would imply it is most definitely not.
So, might there be any chance of even the most marginal shift in approach on that local level?
You might actually save an historic English market town from ruin. Surely that's an attractive notion?
- Mark.
(P.S - As for specifics - Purely on a localised level, Oakham, Brewsters, Oldershaw are all working wonders. But Thornbridge aren't too far away, and why does every other Sainsbury's I know sell BrewDog and Sierra Nevada beers except your tiny stores and a certain much larger store which I happen to live near?)
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