Today's
Beer
Name
– Chiron
Brewer
– Thornbridge
Classification
– American Pale Ale
Strength
– 5.0% ABV
Verdict
- At A Glance
On
the eye
– Deep, rich, comic malevolent laughter inducing orange amber.
On
the nose
– The aromatic equivalent of an earthquake. One whiff will
literally tear your house down. Apples, pears, grapefruit,
nectarines, lime, black pepper, shaking walls, falling masonry...
On
the tongue
– A bewilderingly complex, exuberant, but refreshingly mild
mannered, perhaps even 'gentle' expression of modern brewing capability.
On
the subject
– I think I can safely say Thornbridge is one of the best and most revered
craft breweries in Britain today. Yes, I think I can safely say that. The only
objections to this claim might be about my use of the word 'craft', and demands
might follow about what exactly I mean
by that. I will point those making such complaints in the general
direction of their own backsides.
On
the market
– Well, given their ever enlarging reputation, the reach of
Thornbridge is better than most 'craft' (yes, there it is again, just
deal with it) breweries, but that really serves to illustrate my
point about how poorly represented all the best contemporary UK beers
are in the wider marketplace. Anyway, contact the brewery directly for
sales info, or try The Real Ale Store.
On the whole – 9/10
On the whole – 9/10
Full
Review
Okay, there's been a certain amount of specific 'talk' about this beer lately, so let
me just get right to the heart of the matter.
As many of you will know, Thornbridge
brew a beer called Jaipur, which is considered a modern classic by
the majority of idiots like me who enjoy beer so much that they sit
down and write about it.
Comparisons between these two stable-mates have sparked quite a bit of discussion in the murky realms of beer appreciation.
So here's my contribution to the debate...
I
do not prefer today's beer to Jaipur.
There, I said it.
However, upon further inspection, this
declaration is far more nonsensical than it might first appear.
It's
rather like saying - “I don't prefer this snowflake to that other
one.”
Actually,
it's even closer to saying - “The bright star up there on the left
has less appeal to me than its equally twinkly neighbour”.
Now, it
could be very easily argued that one snowflake is different from
another, but it would take an exceptionally well made argument to
successfully convince a neutral observer than one snowflake is better than the
other.
Likewise,
what evidence could back up a claim that the heavenly body we call
Sirius twinkles more pleasingly than that which we've name Polaris?
Sure, one star might appear bigger to us... but better?
I
think you get my gist.
Jaipur and Chiron are both stunning examples
of their kind. Quite simply, Thornbridge have developed a habit of creating individual products that
are all stellar* in their own right.
(* - Not to be confused with 'Stella', for more reasons than I could list in
one lifetime.)
Indeed,
in many ways these two beers are pretty similar. The are both highly
hopped, underpinned with delicate savoury malt base, and chiefly characterised by a super-complex matrix of citrus, floral, tree fruit and soft spice flavour themes which drop your jaw and keep
it dropped till it damn well hurts. So numerous are these two beers' similarities, that I reckon someone who's never drunk beer
before might not even spot a difference. (After all, we all still know people who think 'bitter' is just 'brown lager.')
But
the reality is there are a whole bunch of differences, and although I
like a lot of the elements which set Chiron apart from Jaipur, there are few
aspects that just don't hit my own personal 'B-spot' in the quite the same way.
It's
not the flavours that (microscopically) miss the target. Oh boy no! Chiron
thrills with delectable swathes of elderflower, rosewater, grapes,
watermelon and mango. It's wonderfully vibrant, fresh, uplifting to the taste.
I
think, if anything, it's the intensity of the overall experience which
would lead me to opt for one of these beers over the other. Chiron is a subtly gentler giant, providing a slightly more 'laid back' experience throughout. That's all very well and
good, and there will be folk who will instinctively vote in favour of that very quality.
But for me, I just found myself wishing for something infinitesimally 'additional' from this beer.
I wanted it to be exactly what it was – but be it a shade more.
At
a considerably less potent 5.0% ABV, I did wonder if this is just the
difference a slightly less robust alcohol content can make to the
character of a beer. And maybe that's what also accounts for the slight sense of comparative thinness in the body which, again, is the kind of thing that suits some people more than others. Personally, with beers of this kind, I've found all
kinds of consistencies can work very well, and I couldn't say that was
a problem for me here.
(Incidentally,
many beer writers refer to the aspect of a beer's
physical characteristics as 'mouthfeel' – a term I dislike
enormously and avoid using because it always makes me imagine
sexually repressed dentists.)
(Don't worry, I'm seeking help...)
Look, I really am splitting hairs here. The fact is that Chiron is one of the best brews around. It really is that simple. Yes, it walks somewhat in the
shadow of one of the finest beers of our time, and comparisons will always be made - but none of that is any of it's own fault.
It's
an exquisitely crafted contemporary high-hopped beer, with a dazzling array of carefully assembled flavours and it's just about as rewarding as pouring liquid into your face can get.
It's
another Thornbridge modern great, and you should go out
and buy yourself at least one bottle of it at your very earliest convenience.
In the meantime, I'm going to continue wishing on that star just a little over to the right.
I almost convinced it twinkles better.
1 comment:
Great rreading your blog
Post a Comment